Log Home Chinking: Top 12 Things You Need to Know?

April 13th, 2008

Chinking for your log home can be easy and complicated all at the same time. It is important to follow the guidelines below.

  1. Select the right chinking application contractor for the job. Ask your chinking contractor for references. Most good chinking contractors will not mind sharing this information and will probably provide it before they are asked for it.
  2. Select a chinking material from a reputable chinking manufacturer such as Sashco.
  3. Select the right chinking material for your job. Some types of chinking material have more texture than others.
  4. Select the type of chinking application you desire. Do you want a clean and crisp finish? Are you looking for trowel marks in the material or are you looking for a very rustic appearance with the chinking material?
  5. Inquire with your chinking contractor whether backer rod will be installed. It is highly recommended to install some form of backer rod before installing your log home chinking material.
  6. Select a chinking material that is going to be compatible with your log home stain. If you are unsure about the compatability of your log chinking and your log home stain then speak with the manufacturers of both products.
  7. Inquire about the product warranty. Log Jam chinking is the only chinking that offers a lifetime warranty. Some of the other chinking materials offer 5 and 10 year warranties. Check with your chinking manufacturer for specific details.
  8. Ask your chinking contractor what type of application warranty they will provide after the chinking has been installed. It is standard for chinking application contractors to offer 1-2 year warranties for small repair work.
  9. Cover all details with your chinking contractor. It is much easier to agree on a contract before the job starts as opposed to during the middle of the job. Make sure to speak with your chinking application contractor about all of the horizontal and vertical details. Do you want your chinking to tie in with your drywall? Are you going to want to install chinking in all of your corner joints? Will your door and window trims require chinking?
  10. Inquire about the time frame for the chinking application. It is much better to have the chinking for the exterior of your log home done during the summer and fall seasons. The chinking can be done during the winter and springs seasons but more precautions need to be taken in order to get the job done right.
  11. Agree with your chinking contractor on who is going to purchase the chinking material.
  12. Finally, make sure your chinking color selection is agreed upon. Once again, it will become difficult to make color changes after the job has been started.

For more information about chinking material, chinking application tools or chinking contractor referrals contact Mountain Home Building Products toll free at 800-490-3695.

Chinking: Log Cabin Chinking: Who Makes Chinking?

April 12th, 2008

Chinking material has been around for centuries. It has seen many changes over time. Typically chinking material is designed to keep the elements outside of a log structure. Also, it can be used solely for aesthetic purposes.

Who makes chinking? Well, there are 3 main chinking manufacturers that supply the majority of the chinking for the current log home industry. These companies are Sashco, Weatherall and Permachink.

Sashco is located in Brighton, Colorado. Sashco has been in business for over 75 years. Permachink is located in Redmond, Washington while Weatherall is located in Charlestown, Indiana. It is unclear and widely disputed who first introduced synthetic chinking to the log home industry. At this point it doesn’t really matter. What does matter is finding the right company that is going to stand behind their chinking material. Additionally, all three companies manufacture log home stains. I mention this because your log home stain and chinking must be compatible to avoid any adhesion problems. Typically, if a company manufacturers both chinking and caulking then it is a pretty safe bet that their products are going to be compatible with each other. Check with each product manufacturer before applying either material.

Chinking for log homes can be purchased in 5 gallon buckets of quart size tubes. Chinking colors range from white white, mortar white, buff, tan, woodtone cedar, gray, light gray, khaki and pecan. Chinking material is typically purchased by contractors but is available for sale to homeowners. We recommend using Log Jam chinking for the following reasons.

  • It is the only chinking that has a 1 hour UL fire rating.
  • It is the only chinking material that is freeze thaw stable.
  • It is the only chinking material that offers a lifetime warranty.
  • It is highly elastic and outperforms almost any other product on the market.
  • It is the choice of most chinking contractors.
  • It is available in 7 standard colors and any custom color can be created.

For more information about chinking material, chinking application tools or chinking contractor referrals contact Mountain Home Building Products toll free at 800-490-3695.

Log Cabin Chinking & Log Home Stain: Should I Apply Cabin Chinking or The Stain For My Logs First

April 12th, 2008

When building a log home there are many important decisions to make during the building process. Each one is important because typically they will have an impact on your next decision. When it comes to selecting the chinking and stain for your log home these tasks should not be overlooked.

It is important to choose a chinking material based on the following criteria.

  • The chinking material should be compatible with your log home stain.
  • The log home chinking should come with a lifetime warranty from the manufacturer.
  • The cabin chinking should come from a reputable manufacturer.
  • The chinking material should have a 1 hour UL fire rating if you require chinking material on your garage wall. Log Jam chinking by Sashco is the only chinking available that meets this criteria.
  • Your chinking contractor should be comfortable with your chinking selection.

It is important to choose a stain material based on the following criteria.

  • The log home stain should be compatible with your chinking material. This will ensure that the chinking material gets proper adhesion and can perform properly.
  • The stain material should be designed for log homes. This is important because not all stains can weather the elements like a log stain.
  • The log stain can be water or oil based but should be a high end product. You will pay more in the beginning for a good log home stain product but you will save money in the long run.
  • The log stain should be compatible with some type of exterior clear finish such as Cascade. This will make your log stain maintenance work quite a bit easier and much more economical.
  • Choose a stain that provides you the color that you like but remember that there will be worked involved to keep it this color.

Most chinking materials will accept stain which is why it is recommended to stain first. This is the common process because most people want to keep a color contradiction between the chinking and the logs. Also, the stain will cover some dirt, dust or grease which will allow the chinking to get better adhesion. Finally, it is recommended to let your stain set up for 7-10 days before beginning the chinking process. This will provide the chinking applicator an easier time when cleaning the chinking material from your house logs.

For more information about chinking material, chinking application tools or chinking contractor referrals contact Mountain Home Building Products toll free at 800-490-3695.

Does Your Log Home Need Chinking: Chinking Mistakes to Avoid

April 12th, 2008

Chinking for log homes can be used for aesthetic reasons or can be done to ensure the elements stay outside. Some homeowners like the look of chinking while others don’t want to see any chinking on their home. Typically chinking is required on your log home if you meet any of the following criteria:

  • Can you stick your hand from the inside of your log home to the outside?
  • Do you want the joint between your logs to stand out?
  • Do you want the joint between your logs to be greater than 3/4”?

If you answered yes to any of the above questions then most likely your home will require chinking material. Chinking is designed to stand out from your logs because of the heavy surface texture and the available colors. It is important to remember that chinking can only do so much. The performance of the chinking will depend a lot on the application of the material. When applying chinking take the following items into consideration:

  • House Logs that exceed a 20% moisture content will put an abnormal amount of stress on a chinking joint.
  • Large house logs will require a wider chinking joint.
  • Chinking joints should be approximately 1/12” the size of the diameter of your house logs. (Example: A 12” log would require a 1” chinking joint.)
  • Chinking performs best when it has 2-point adhesion. This is accomplished by using some form of backer rod.
  • Chinking should be applied between 40-90 degrees.
  • Chinking typically takes 3 weeks to fully cure.
  • Chinking will remain pliable throughout the lifetime of the product.
  • Chinking should be done after a compatible stain is applied.

In conclusion, chinking for log homes can provide a weather-tite seal or aesthetic appeal. In either case, it is important to remember that the material will perform much better if the proper guidelines are followed. Check with the different chinking manufacturers for warranty information. I recommend Log Jam chinking by Sashco because it is the only chinking that offers a lifetime warranty.

For more information about chinking material, chinking warranties, chinking application tools or chinking contractor referrals contact Mountain Home Building Products toll free at 800-490-3695 or send an email to cs@mountainhomebuildingproducts.com.

How to Apply Log Home Chinking Material

April 7th, 2008

Chinking a log home requires patience and an artistic touch. It is typically done by professional chinking contractors but can be accomplished by homeowners. Follow the guidelines below for a successful job.

  1. Ensure that your wood is clean and dry before starting your chinking job. The moisture content of your wood should be below 20%. Rain should not be in the forecast for at least 7 days. Also, make sure that your stain and chinking are compatible.
  2. Install some form of backing material before applying the chinking material. This will allow the chinking material to expand and contract like a rubber band and save you money in chinking material costs.
  3. Use a bulk loading gun for chinking joints that are an average of 1” or greater and quart size tubes for smaller joints.
  4. The chinking material should be applied between 40-90 degrees. Do not apply the chinking material in direct sunlight. This could lead to blisters in the chinking material which are not fun to repair.
  5. Start by gunning a 3′ section of chinking material onto the wood substrate, smooth it out with a putty knife, trowel or foam brush. Do not gun to much chinking material to start with because it will skin over rather quickly and become difficult to tool.
  6. If the chinking material does skin over, lightly mist it with water. This will help in spreading the material.
  7. Make sure to get good adhesion to the top and bottom of the chinking joint. This can be accomplished by using the right amount of pressure with your tooling instrument.
  8. Make sure to get the correct depth of material when applying the chinking. A good rule of thumb is a 1/2”.
  9. Use a foam brush or rag to clean up the chinking material as you are applying it. It will become a major project to wait and clean it up at the end of the day.
  10. Have fun with your chinking project. The more chinking material that you apply the better you will become at chinking.

For more information about chinking material, chinking application tools or chinking contractor referrals contact Mountain Home Building Products toll free at 800-490-3695 or send an email to cs@mountainhomebuildingproducts.com.

Log Home Caulking

March 30th, 2008

Log home caulking is designed to specifically handle the expansion and contraction of the logs during and after the log home building process. Caulking can be purchased in a 5 gallon bucket, 29oz tube or 1o.5 oz tube. It is available in variety of colors like tan, redwood, woodtone, dark brown, prairie gold, harvest wheat, warm honey, golden mesa, canyon wall, santa fe trail or red earth. Caulking is typically used in joint sizes ranging from 1/4” to 3/4” wide. Most homeowners prefer that it blend in with their wood. There are two different types of caulking used on log homes. The first has no texture while the second has just a little. Caulking can be applied by professionals or diyer’s and is typically applied after the structure has been stained. Most caulking materials come with some type of warranty and are designed to last the lifetime of the building. Finally, it is important to use backer rod with caulking so that the material only gets two point adhesion. It is this two point adhesion that allows the caulking to stretch like a rubber band.

For more information about caulking material, caulking color charts, caulking application tools or caulking contractor referrals contact Mountain Home Building Products toll free at 800-490-3695 or send an email to cs@mountainhomebuildingproducts.com.

Log Home Chinking

March 11th, 2008

Modern chinking is designed to look like old time mortar yet remain soft and flexible in order to keep the elements outside. Chinking can be purchased in a 5 gallon bucket or a 29oz tube. It is available in a variety of colors like light gray, mortar white, buff, tan, pecan or white white. Chinking is typically used in joint sizes ranging from 1-4 inches wide. Chinking has a gritty surface texture because it is designed to stand out from the wood. Chinking can be applied by professionals or diyer’s and is typically applied after the structure has been stained. Most chinking materials come with some type of warranty and are designed to last the lifetime of the building. Finally, it is important to use backer rod with chinking so that the material only gets two point adhesion. It is this two point adhesion that allows the chinking to stretch like a rubber band.

For more information about chinking material, chinking application tools or chinking contractor referrals contact Mountain Home Building Products toll free at 800-490-3695 or send an email to cs@mountainhomebuildingproducts.com.

Log Home Finishing Terms

January 13th, 2008

Adhesive Failure: Occurs when a sealant pulls away from the substrate. This type of failure is typically present when there is a compatibility issue between the finish and the sealant.

Back Brush: The act of vigorously brushing the stain into the substrate. This is a critical step that should not be overlooked on the exterior.

Backer Rod: Usually a foam material used to provide 2-point adhesion to the sealant.

Borate: A preservative used to protect wood from insect infestations and rot.

Caulking: A common type of sealant material used on log homes around doors, windows, checks, between logs and small horizontal joints.

Check: A crack-like opening that forms in a log as it shrinks and dries. Checks that are ΒΌ inch or greater and facing upwards should be sealed.

Chinking: Sealant material used on log homes designed to resemble mortar but remains soft and pliable to keep up with the movement of the logs. Chinking is mainly used in large horizontal joints ranging from 1 to 4 inches and is designed to stand out from the logs.

Chemical Stripping: Chemicals applied prior to pressure washing to help clean or strip a finish from the surface of the wood.

Cohesive Failure: Occurs when a sealant pulls away from itself and often exists when there is excessive movement in the substrate.

Compatibility: Effectiveness of a finish and sealant properly working together.

Corn Cob Blasting: Environmentally friendly process using crushed corn cobs to clean or remove stains from logs. It is similar to but less aggressive than sandblasting.

Felting & Fuzzing: Common side effect associated with pressure washing and is best described as a surface texture that resembles that of a tennis ball.

Micro checking: Small checks that occur when moisture is rapidly pulled from a log. This mainly occurs on the exterior of log homes but can happen on the interior.

Mill glaze: A thin coating of sap, sugars or water that seep to the surface of a log during the milling process.

Moisture content: The amount of water present in wood which is usually expressed as the percentage weight of water relative to the overall dry weight of the wood.

Mold/Mildew: Typically a black discoloration on the surface of wood.

Oil Based Stain: Commonly used stain that is easy to work with and designed to penetrate wood. Clean up performed with solvents. Note: Use of respirator is highly recommended.

Oxalic Acid: Highly toxic cleaner works well in removing redwood tanning stains and rust discoloration. Not effective against mold and mildew.

Oxygenated Bleach (Sodium Percarbonate Cleaner): Bleach that kills mold and mildew but does not harm the wood or the environment. Best cleaner for logs. More expensive than other cleaners.

Pressure Washing: Common log cleaning process utilizes pressurized water applied through a fan nozzle to the substrate. Wood must be allowed to dry to moisture content below 20% before staining.

Settlement: The movement of walls that occurs over time due to the shrinkage of logs as they lose their moisture.

Shrinkage: The decreasing in size of a log as it loses some of its moisture content over time.

Sap Stain: Typically a blue green discoloration on the surface of wood.

Substrate Failure: Occurs when the substrate is pulled from itself.

TSP (Trisodium Phosphate): A product mixed with water and used to clean logs and redwood decks.

Two Point Adhesion: A proper sealant joint. Backer rod needs to be installed behind the sealant in order to get adhesion to the top and bottom of the joint. The sealant should not adhere to the back of the joint those promoting two points of contact with the substrate.

Water & Oil Emulsion Stain: Environmentally friendly stain designed to form a surface bond and penetrate into the substrate. Additionally, it must be elastic and allow the wood to breathe. Note: Clean up is performed with soap and water.

Water Based Stain: Environmentally friendly stain designed to bond to the surface of the substrate. Additionally, it must be highly elastic and allow the wood to breathe. Note: Dries relatively quickly which can lead to lap marks and brush marks if the proper application is not followed. Clean up is performed with soap and water.

Please contact us with any comments, questions or requests for additional information.